The city of New Orleans might still be recovering from hosting the Super Bowl, but that’s not stopping the birthplace of jazz music from getting ready to celebrate it’s biggest annual holiday this year.
The celebration, which lands on Tuesday (March 4), leads up to Lent — the Christian tradition of fasting and reflection. But before that, the people of New Orleans turn up big time with Mardi Gras, which translates to “Fat Tuesday.” The holiday is typically all about fun and community, but under it all lies a deeper connection to Black American history. So we’re schooling everyone on the true Black excellence of Mardi Gras.
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Mardi Gras Started in Mobile, Ala.
Although Louisiana typically takes all the Mardi Gras shine, the celebration was originally born in good ol’ Alabama. What’s known as the city of Mobile was first a French colony, way before any state lines were drawn. It was there that the concept of modern Mardi Gras was created, and to this day, Mobile’s own celebration of Mardi Gras is one of the most memorable and historically significant gatherings recognized around the world.
Mardi Gras Used to be “Whites Only”
Like most aspects of American culture, Mardi Gras was once haunted by deep racism and segregation. The first parade to ever hit the streets of New Orleans, The Mistick Krewe of Comus, specifically forbade Black folks from participating or even attending the event. “All gatherings by slaves and free men of color were prohibited.” It wasn’t until the early 1900s that Black folks started celebrating the holiday in their own unique ways.
Zulu in Mardi Gras
When most people think of Zulu, they immediately think of the native South African tribe. But in New Orleans, Zulu takes on its own meaning as a Black social club which hosts an annual ball and other events during Mardi Gras. The organization, or “krewe,” was founded in 1909 to combat segregation across the holiday.
The Mardi Gras Indians
When African slaves were forcefully shipped to Louisiana, it was Native American tribes that not only helped enslaved people escape the inhumane captivity, but also taught them how to live off the earth. From there, a beautiful relationship between Native cultures and Black Louisiana culture merged. Now, the Mardi Gras Indians organize annually to pay homage to the people who helped Black folks during American slavery.
The German Coast Slave Rebellion
Enslaved Africans were constantly revolting against slavery. One of the most interesting and least learned about slave rebellions occurred in Louisiana during Mardi Gras in 1811. Know as the German Coast slave rebellion, the massive slave revolt was led by Charles Deslondes, a self-emancipated slave who came to Louisiana from Haiti. He led more than 500 rebels in one of the largest organized slave revolts in American history. Deslondes and other leaders were eventually caught, killed, and had their heads cut off and placed on poles along the River Road.
The North Side Skull & Bones Gang
If you’ve ever been to Mardi Gras and spotted a group of folks dressed as skeletons, then you’ve probably seen the North Side Skull & Bones Gang. With the tradition dating back to 1819, participants drum throughout the streets of the Treme neighborhood, also known as the nation’s oldest Black neighborhood. The whole point of the annual North Side tradition is to honor the dead and celebrate the true meaning of Mardi Gras, “the shedding of flesh.”
The Music of Mardi Gras
Everything you love about Mardi Gras and New Orleans is probably because of Black folks. Just take the music of the celebration! Drawing large inspiration from jazz culture, the music of Mardi Gras is an ode to Black Americans contributions to New Orleans, music as an art form, and the country as a whole.
Mardi Gras Finally Desegregates in 1992
Yes, you read that right. It took until 1992 for the annual celebration to be officially desegregated. Specifically integrating carnival krewes was a lot easier said than done. It took a Black city councilwoman named Dorothy Mae Taylor to push the legislation which would give krewes an ultimatum: either desegregate or dispel totally. Many white krewes chose not to participate in the celebration as a result.
Louis Armstrong at Mardi Gras
In 1949, thousands of Mardi Gras goers rushed to see New Orleans native Louis Armstrong be crowned Zulu king. “There’s a thing I’ve dreamed of all my life,” Armstrong told Time magazine, “and I’ll be damned if it don’t look like it’s about to come true – to be king of the Zulu parade. After that, I’ll be ready to die.” The parade itself was segregated, but Armstrong brought in a world of carnival celebrators.
An Exception Made for Masks Only at Mardi Gras
When Black folks were banned from celebrating the holiday, they started to wear masks to conceal their racial identity. But eventually, this trick was found out by the government who would ban masks statewide, a law that is still applicable today. Things changed, however, when the state officially made Mardi Gras a holiday and specified that folks could wear masks — but only for Mardi Gras. In fact, all float riders must wear a mask or paint their faces according to state law.
Gumbo
The origins of gumbo, like many other New Orleans food, can be traced back to West Africa. The word “gumbo” comes from the West African word ki ngombo, which means “okra.” Gumbo is a Mardi Gras staple.
Black Face Controversy
While native New Orleaners know and understand the meaning behind what looks like Blackface but is really an honoring of Black history and slavery, that doesn’t mean the entire world is on board. In fact, the Zulu krewe often face backlash from folks outside the culture who don’t understand the significance. Many have even called for legal and political action to prevent the face painting tradition.
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