Before Virgil Abloh painted the fashion scene with “Off-White”, there was Willi Smith — the true originator of streetwear. In 1976, Smith launched WilliWear, a groundbreaking brand that reimagined what fashion could be. With gender-neutral silhouettes, cultural influences, and affordability, Smith provided high-quality fashion for everyday people, not just the runway.
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A true industry leader, Smith integrated art, film, and performance into his work, bringing fashion to galleries, dance stages, and the city streetwalks. Willi Smith did more than influence fashion — he redefined it. Let’s take a look back at the life and work of Willi Smith.
Who Was Willi Smith?
Born in Philadelphia in February 1948, Willie Donnell Smith was a revolutionary American fashion designer from the very beginning. After high school, he enrolled at the Philadelphia College of Art to study fashion illustration, where he discovered his passion for design. In 1965, he earned two scholarships to attend the prestigious Parsons School of Design in New York, all while freelancing as a designer.
Early Career
While in school, Smith was already building a name for himself. He worked as a freelancer for fashion heavyweights such as Arnold Scaasi and Bobbie Brooks’ sportswear. After two years at Parsons, Smith stepped out on his own and began designing a label for Digits, a sportswear company. With his intuitive sense of style, paired with a focus on comfort and practicality, he made clothes that looked good and felt better.
Becoming WilliWear
In 1976, Smith co-founded the brand with Laurie Mallet, launching a brand that seamlessly blended street style with high fashion. WilliWear challenged the notion that fashion was reserved for the elite and instead celebrated individuality and inclusivity.
WilliWear “It” Factor
At the core, WilliWear was all about comfort, movement, and breaking fashion norms. Smith’s gender-neutral designs were very different from the stiff, over-the-top styles usually seen on the runway. Inspired by urban street style and the way real people express themselves, WilliWear made everyone feel included and effortlessly cool.
Activism For The Culture
Through WilliWear, Smith’s creative vision went beyond the runway. He designed costumes for various productions, including those for the renowned Bill T. Jones/Arnie Zane Dance Company, dancers on “Soul Train,” and Spike Lee’s film “School Daze.”As a creative, these groundbreaking partnerships were more than fashion; it was about storytelling and cultural connections.
Major Career Milestones
Smith’s career was filled with remarkable achievements. By 1986, WilliWear was carried in over 500 stores worldwide and had grossed more than $25 million in revenue. His impact was recognized with prestigious awards, including the Coty American Fashion Critics’ Award in 1983 and the Cutty Sark Men’s Fashion Award in 1985.
Tragic Loss
Willi Smith’s groundbreaking career was tragically cut short by his untimely death on April 17, 1987, at the age of 39. He was hospitalized after contracting shigellosis, a parasitic disease, and pneumonia during a fabric-buying trip in India. While his initial cause of death was attributed to these infections, an autopsy revealed that he was HIV-positive, and his death was ultimately considered AIDS-related. Smith was unaware of his diagnosis and had no symptoms before his hospitalization. His passing marked a profound loss for the fashion world, as he was one of the most influential American designers of his time.
His Legacy
In 2020, the Cooper Smithsonian Design Museum hosted “Willi Smith: Street Couture,” the first major museum exhibition dedicated to showcasing his life and work. The show highlighted his approach to design, his collaborations with contemporary artists, and his enduring vision. This renewed attention ignited conversations about Black creatives in fashion history and reaffirmed Smith’s role as a true pioneer of streetwear and design.
Impactful Influence
Willi Smith’s influence remains the “blueprint” to the fashion landscape. From the accessible luxury of Telfar to the culturally aware storytelling of Pyer Moss, his influence has completely reshaped the way designers think about fashion.
Street Couture Pioneer
“I don’t design clothes for the Queen,” Smith famously said. “But for the people who wave at her as she goes by.” Willi Smith embodied the spirit of a fashion leader. Unlike many of the other high-fashion designers who catered exclusively to an elite clientele, Smith was dedicated to creating stylish, comfortable, and affordable clothing for everyday people. He made sure to bring the best out in everyone.
Impact on Virgil Abloh, Pyer Moss and Telfar
Willi Smith paved the way for today’s influential designers such as Virgil Abloh, Kerby Jean-Raymond, and Telfar Clemens. His vision has empowered other design leaders to maintain the streetwear culture. Designers such as Telfar created a motto, “Not for you – for everyone,” which echoes Smith’s mission to design for real people, not solely for the elite.
Why Willi Smith Still Matters Today
His work falls between race, class, and creativity – issues that remain deeply relevant in fashion. His legacy serves as a blueprint for modern fashion disruptors and reminds us that true innovation often comes from those who have the desire to be seen.
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