HBO’s acclaimed series, “The Gilded Age,” may have us glued to the screen, but the show is also a great example of how contemporary costume design can recreate history from a significant time. Costume designer Kasia Walicka-Maimone beautifully replicates the fashion style of Black American high society in the late 1800s. Across the three seasons, the polished, from the tailored suits of Black gentlemen to the refined, silk gowns worn by women, every outfit helped distinguish the class members of the Black Elite.
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Let’s take a closer look at the fashion style of “The Gilded Age.”
The History
During the 19th century, the Black elite used fashion as a means of self-expression and to assert status within white society. Inspired by Eurocentric norms, Black elite women often wore intricate, well-tailored dresses with fine details, while Black men’s typical style included sharp three-piece suits, gloves, and a traditional derby hat. HBO’s “The Gilded Age” is a true nod to the portrayal of this era’s Black elite fashion.
Class Discintions
The show’s costumes directly reflected class distinctions, with characters like Peggy Scott, who is seen wearing intricate dresses with vibrant prints, symbolizing upper-middle-class status.
Meet Peggy Scott
So, who is Peggy Scott? The beautiful journalist, portrayed by Denée Benton, represents the young Black elite on the hit television show. She quickly became a voice to watch, blending her reporting skills with an amazing fashion sense that has enthusiasts looking forward to the next episode.
Her Style
Throughout the show, viewers can see that Peggy Scott’s style is an even balance of sophistication and modern edge. Between the stunning dresses, structured blouses, and elegant coats, her look is a prime example of Old Hollywood from a Black woman’s perspective.
Contrast & Color
Kasia Walicka-Maimone shared that she wanted to bring color and contrast to the cast to add more vibrancy to the show. In this scene, Walicka made sure to stay within the style parameters while adding more flair to the 19th-century looks.
The Style of Elite Black Women
Throughout the show, the fashion of the Black women reflects elegance, wealth, and “quiet luxury,” solidifying their place in elite society. The women’s attire in “The Gilded Age” adheres to the classic 1880s style, featuring corsets, bustled skirts, and high collars. Their tasteful selection of jewelry and fabrics further enhances this sophisticated aesthetic.
Meet Dorothy and Arthur Scott
Meet Dorothy and Arthur Scott, portrayed by Audra McDonald and John Douglas Thompson, the proud parents of the ambitious Peggy. As members of the older Black elite, the Scotts embody grace and refinement, serving as an example of how a distinguished family carries itself. For everyday wear, the men wear solid-colored three-piece suits, while the women wear bold and vibrant prints, complemented by a structured white collared blouse.
Meet Elizabeth Kirkland
Elizabeth Kirkland, portrayed by Phylicia Rashad, has an impeccable style that reflects her status as a beautiful matriarch. Her look leans toward refined, feminine silhouettes, with a wardrobe of luxurious, elegant dresses. She often favors white hues, which, along with her glamorous accessories, evokes an “old money” status.
Meet Dr. William Kirkland
Dr. William Kirkland, portrayed by Jordan Donica, embodied the classic, distinguished Black gentleman. His style was marked by well-tailored, dark-colored suits paired with clean, collared shirts and accessories that highlighted his professional and dignified demeanor.
Welcome To Black High Society
Black high society used fashion not only for aesthetics but also as a powerful tool for social and political expression. Dressed in elegant, custom-made garments, they intentionally asserted their wealth and solidified their position within their community.
Women’s Special Occasion Attire
In season three, viewers got a closer look at how Black high society women dress with class and precision for special occasions, using fashion as a statement piece. Their formal gowns are constructed from the finest silks, satins, and lace, and often feature jewel tones that create a beautiful, regal look. Most women accessorize their dresses with beaded trims, long satin gloves, and gorgeous jewelry to create an elevated aesthetic.
Men’s Formal Wear
The men of Black high society dress with the same elegance as their counterparts, but with a more deliberate intention. During formal events, they wear black or dark-colored tailcoats, often paired with clean white shirts, waistcoats, and bow ties. The fabrics, usually the finest wool with silk accents and subtle patterns like pinstripes, were a clear indicator of high fashion. The look was always completed with top hats, gloves, and well-polished shoes that commanded attention.
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