Before you slice into that sweet potato pie, douse those greens in hot sauce or cut a corner of macaroni and cheese this holiday season, consider what you may be missing.
African-American food historian Leni Sorensen says that the iconic images of soul food during Thanksgiving and Christmas represent a small slice of black American culinary customs. “There’s a wide repertoire of food. Everybody understands the iconic list of greens and pork chops and corn bread and sweet potato pie. But that is only a minor list of all of the different foods that people eat within their own communities,” says Sorensen, a researcher at Thomas Jefferson’s Monticello.
In the late 19th century, geography factored in how people celebrated the yuletide season. During this time, African Americans lived mostly a rural existence, which translated into a farm-to-table lifestyle.
The Taste of Country Cooking by the late culinary giant Edna Lewis resonates for Sorensen because it shows patterns of local community informing holiday celebrations.
“She writes beautifully [about the] central Virginia area and getting ready for Christmas,” Sorensen says. Lewis reminisces about family members telling her stories of the 1880s and 1890s. This was the only time of year in which they savored almonds, oranges and raisins. Christmas Eve supper consisted of oyster stew, country ham and yeast bread with blackberry jelly, alongside cakes and cookies.
In South Carolina, Christmas dinner might consist of rice and shellfish. In New Orleans, the buffet would be filled with seafood from the Gulf Coast.
In the 20th century, as blacks migrated north, new dishes emerged in the urban environment. “People moved away from being on farms very dramatically. Urban families began to eat very differently,” Sorensen says. Domestic workers cooked what the families they worked for craved or perhaps stood behind the stove in a hotel kitchen. And that widened their breadth of cooking.